Author Topic: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner  (Read 1026 times)

Offline Gairlochan

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Hello all,

I've only just introduced myself although I've had my RR (possibly RR cross, but looks and acts like ridgeless RR) for nearly 5 months now. The forum took a long time to accept my registration for some reason; I'd given up on it but it's just gone through. Just in time too, because I have a complicated problem with my 9 month old RR boy, Kim.

He was a rescuee and was 4 1/2 months old when he arrived on our doorstep neglected, abused and shy of men, and totally untrained and unsocialised, having been tied up to the side of a house by a short piece of bailing twine ever since weaning, and never taken for a walk or allowed to run around. We sorted out his major fears with homoeopathy very quickly and effectively (Aconite, a fear/trauma specific remedy), but he's still left with some emotional scars. We had to go easy on him for a few weeks until we'd got the homoeopathic remedies and got the treatment over and done with, because even firmness would frighten him. So he was over five months old before we even started any training, and as my husband has no experience at all with dogs, and as Kim still didn't quite trust him (though he regarded me as his mum, running to me for comfort, licking my face a lot and even trying to lick and chew my nipples!), things weren't exactly straightforward after that either.

Anyway, once we'd discovered that he was a Ridgeback (or at least a Ridgeback cross who took after his RR parent in looks and character), I researched RRs and their specific training/socialising issues. My past experience with dogs had been with a gentle labrador cross pup from the RSPCA pound and an adult stray corgi, so I wasn't best prepared myself, especially when I discovered this (to me) new dog-training concept of being the leader of the family 'pack'.

Kim was typically RR, independent-minded and couldn't be trusted to come when called, and was doing some gentle, soft play-biting and puppy-level jumping up at that age, and I had no idea then just how much worse it was going to get when he hit 'puberty' at seven months and started to try to climb the pack hierarchy, using physical strength already sufficient to tow my stocky, sturdy 80Kg/200lb husband along by force though he was still only 35 Kg himself.

I picked up a tip from reading a RR forum which recommended grabbing by the scruff of the neck to assert parental-style dominance, and I tried it once and it stopped his relentless play-biting instantly, it gave him such a jolt. But it only worked because he was still fairly young then and because I did it, his surrogate mother, with a strong character naturally facing confrontations and winning them if at all possible; I've been the type to fight my own corner all my life, and I'll always stand up for myself and win any confrontation if possible, a trait I inherited from my father.

Unfortunately, I've been laid low for a couple of months now with almost wall to wall migraines and malaise due to a severe, incurable auto-immune neurological illness which I've had for 25 yrs now and which is getting worse. So my husband Alan, who cares for me, has also been caring for Kim, and Alan has the opposite character from mine in this respect (in most respects actually). He has always avoided confrontation, and his son found him easy to manipulate with nagging because Alan couldn't say 'No' firmly and mean it; it's just not there in his character. My son never even tried nagging me, as he had read my character from a young age and knew that I was, although not at all domineering, definitely firm and consistent, always meaning what I said and doing or not doing whatever I'd said I would or wouldn't do.

So while I've been out of it for these last few months, Kim's been going through a critical stage of puberty and has definitely become dominant over my husband Alan. From things Alan's said about the interactions he's been having with Kim over these months I should have realised it earlier (not that I could have done anything about it, but still …). But I found out today when I was feeling strong and I took Kim for a walk for the first time in months and came back with my arms covered in bruises and scratches from his teeth (play-biting, not aggression, but very rough) and exhausted and frustrated from having had to deal with this return of the relentless biting which I'd managed to cure before but had not been well enough to maintain dominance in the household, and from having to fend off relentless jumping up (if I turned away and ignored him, he just jumped up on my back and nearly decked me), and throwing what I call 'high tackles' because that's what they remind me of in football (rugby) terms; him flinging himself bodily at me as high as he could manage, which was about shoulder height (I'm 5'7"/170cm) and trying to bodyslam me, etc etc. By the time I'd got home from the walk I was quite upset at all my hard work having been undone, knowing I couldn't rely on my health to be able to be on my feet long and often enough to sort this out, and knowing that, with the best will in the world, my placid, gentle, non-confrontational husband just simply didn't and doesn't have it in his character to dominate Kim, even though he does go through the motions … sometimes anyway.

And he's got into bad habits with Kim because he finds confrontation and firmness so hard: instead of teaching Kim not to jump up at all, he's taken to carrying a stick of some sort with him so when Kim does jump up, he holds the stick out in front of him and Kim grabs it in his teeth and worries it and they play-wrestle together with the stick; I didn't have a stick or even think of deflecting him, so I got play-bitten badly and bodyslammed heavily, having to use my forearms to block him because my arms aren't strong enough for me to use my hands, and he just … wouldn't … stop … no matter how many times I pulled him down, settled him or tried to, and got firm and serious with him.

And no amount of being held by the scruff of the neck and being told 'Down!" with stern, direct eye contact from an elevated position, holding him down on the ground and forcing him into a submissive posture etc made the slightest difference; he just bounced straight up again and continued as before as soon as I let go of him. Over and over again. I had to face the fact that in my two months' break from 'top dog' position, he'd become a hooligan.

Alan actually plays with Kim encouraging and not seeing the problem with these 'high tackles', by deflecting him and making him 'bounce off', or dodging out of his 'flight path'. But he's admitted that if Kim's with him, he can't have even a short conversation with someone on the beach or street without Kim going berserk, to which Alan responds by letting Kim manipulate him into continuing the walk, and saying to the person, "I'll have to talk to you later, when Kim's not here". He takes Kim to parts of our 20Km long beach where there's no-one else around before he can let him off the leash to run and play, because he can't control or trust him not to do something dangerous or antisocial, and as in the UK our dog control laws are very strict in Australia; one complaint that someone 'feels intimidated by him', even if he hasn't touched the person, would be enough to put him on the Dangerous Dogs List and have him wearing a muzzle while in public.

Kim's not aggressive at all, ever. But a RR doesn't have to be to still be a pretty intimidating prospect. And Kim's a heavyweight for his size, with a stocky build, possibly because he is probably a cross (and the breed he's possibly crossed with is about the same height as an RR but more heavily built. It's an Australian breed bred for pig hunting, called a Bull Arab). So when he plays rough RR style, he's packing more weight for his age and height than most if not all RRs.

Sorry for rambling, but my point is that Alan, who is by default exercising him and looking after him, lacks the raw material in his character to be even consistent, let alone dominant, and I have to pick up the pieces and suffer the consequences when I do get up and walk or play with Kim. I can't have any fun with him because I have to give him a short, sharp course in who's boss instead.

I'm almost ashamed to say it, because I'm not a fan of punishment or brutality in any form (I've never punished my son, now 18, in his life, actively or passively; just used reason, fairness and mutual respect and trust, and we have a great, close relationship). But Kim's not a human and not amenable to reasoning or co-operation. And, knowing that RRs play rough and therefore expect and respect rough treatment back and that I'd tried everything else, I managed to get Kim home from the walk and, in the yard, I flipped him over on his back and straddled him to hold him down on his back, gave him a couple of firm, no-nonsense slaps on each cheek and grasped his throat, not hard enough to hurt but hard enough to frighten, and shouted 'No!' at him loudly from close up a few times, then growled at him for a while, shaking him a bit now and then, to try to give the impression that a bigger dog whom he'd been challenging in the pack hierarchy had turned on him to put him in his place. I held it like that for 6 -7 minutes while he lay very still with his gaze averted, too intimidated to look at me or even glance up.

In actual fact the act was hard to maintain convincingly because I wasn't actually angry at him, just a bit fed up and frustrated at the whole topsy-turvy situation, because when he's not being impossible he's funny, affectionate, immensely endearing and adorable and neither of us could imagine living without him.

But with my couple of days of relative strength every few months I have to go through something which we both find traumatic, just to put him down at the bottom of the pack pecking order all over again … anyway, I pulled him to his feet and towed him inside and through the house and into my room, so he couldn't just relax outside and forget about me and my message about who was boss. Then I held eye contact and did a bit more growling, gave him a pig's ear to chew and he lay down passively and went to sleep (normally he'd still be jumping and biting after a walk, but he was subdued; I'd got through to him). He slept for about 1 1/2 hours, then got up and came over to my bed and rested his chin on the edge with an uncertain, questioning but docile expression. So I stroked him gently and he licked my hand a bit and then he went off and had another sleep until Alan came home and Kim woke up to greet him. He's been well-behaved since then, but that was only this afternoon, so I don't know how long it'll hold.

He's been traumatised once in his life, and so have I (lots of times) so I'm scared of crossing the line of giving him a strong message about who's boss and making him actually scared of me. Ideally Alan and I would both be healthy and would have got an earlier start on a dog who hadn't been abused and neglected, and we could be firm and consistent and never have to resort to such radical treatment. But Alan knows all this consciously, about the dominance thing, and although a very responsible, reliable, self-confident man in general, he cannot deal with confrontation at all; he's always had an issue with it, an inability to deal with it, and all the intellectual understanding in the world isn't going to change the message his 'vibe' and body language are putting across to Kim.

Short of my magically getting well somehow, I can't really see a solution to this. Whenever I have a talk to Alan about being firmer with Kim, he'll try to do it but it fails utterly and he gives up within a few days to a week at most. We both love Kim and I don't want to go back to having a Labrador now that I've tasted the pleasures and fascination of living with a RR. But I wish there was some other way of keeping Kim in his place.

I'm not expecting any magical solutions, especially as my illness and various other things load both of us down so neither of us has the energy to do nearly as much training with Kim as he needs, especially at this volatile age. A breeder told me that 9 months was an age where RRs were at their most difficult and challenging (I don't know if that's across the board or applies only to males), so I can only hope she's right and that things will settle down somewhat, just as they do with human teenagers sooner or later. I've already taken my heart in my hands and given Alan explicit permission to sell or give Kim to someone who'll look after him if he's feeling too stressed by it all to do it himself, but he's too attached to Kim to do that; he just said he couldn't do it.

No comments necessary or expected; I just really needed to get this off my chest because it makes me feel like a thug and I can't see a way around it. But if anyone does have any ideas …

best,

Lachlan

Offline rrbylexus

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2010, 03:52 PM »

Sounds like you've got a bit of a problem with training on your hands and while I don't have a solution for you I do have some suggestions.

I would strongly recommend that you call a professional dog trainer to come and spend some time with Kim and your family.  The trainer should be able to show all of you some things that can help Kim through the next few months of puberty and get some of his training under control.

I have always told my puppy clients that a tired dog is a happy dog which leads to happy owners.  I suspect that Kim probably isn't getting enough physical and mental stiumulation on a daily basis.  Perhaps the trainer could make some suggestions to you and introduce you to some other people with dogs of like size and energy that would be good playmates for Kim.  Daily play dates would certainly help burn off  a lot of energy and teach him some "pack order" in the dog world. 

If Kim hasn't already been neutered you might consider that as well, as he is reaching maturity, he's going to have unneeded hormones rushing around causing more havoc in your home.

Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions.

Pam Mathews
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Offline caro

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2010, 05:16 PM »
I agree with Pam, you definitely need to find a professional trainer to help you and your family.  I sympathize with you having your hard work undone in the short time you were laid up.  It's very frustrating and unfortunate that it happened at a time in Kim's life when he was "testing the waters" so to speak. 

One thing you can try to stop the biting of your arms and hands is to coat your arms with soap.  He won't like the taste and it may deter him in the future.  With my puppy who is very young I can simply give him something else to chew on and he is happy, but then he is teething and like a baby needs to chew on something, really anything will do. The jumping up can be deterred by a sharp knee to the chest but you need to time it right. 

One thing you need to do is establish a rule that when he is on the leash it is not playtime.  It is serious together time and you both are out to enjoy your walk.  I would suggest a halter like the Sporn to control him if he pulls.

Some RRs can be really stubborn and you do need to be extremely firm with them, but then when they do something right you have to be quick to reward and praise.  They are bright enough that they get the message pretty quick. 


Carroline

Offline Gairlochan

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2010, 04:29 AM »
Pam and Caro, thanks for replying, and thanks for the good suggestions.

Sorry for another epic. Again, it wan't intended to be. But it fills out the picture quite a lot.

As for professional dog trainers, we're a fair way out in the Australian bush here and on top of that, my husband really hates driving and won't drive to anything he doesn't have to drive to. Needless to say, there's no public transport either, not that he could take Kim on a bus anyway. Also, for the next six weeks at least, he's 'on call at unpredictable hours' so to speak, as we're in the final stages of having our little cottage built and he's having to meet with lots of tradespeople and make lots of decisions. This is a very high stress time for him as you can imagine, so Kim's unplanned arrival (at this rented house where we're not even allowed to have pets, so are keeping our big, boisterous lad out of sight of the real estate agent on top of everything else), and the arrival of his 'teenage rebellion' was pretty bad timing. So when I just ran the dog trainer idea past Alan just now he said he couldn't take on anything that would tie him down to regular hours until we were finally in our new place. That's another 5 Km further away from the nearest town (Bundaberg), making it a 50 Km round trip. And I've read some bad things about experiences with trainers who didn't know RRs, didn't know where their specific buttons were, and were at the very least ineffective. And at the moment more than ever before, the last thing we have is money to burn if the trainer isn't RR savvy. It's the same reasoning which has created at least three RR forums that I know of personally, and possibly more, and what makes us join a RR forum as opposed to a generalised dog behaviour forum.

Having said that, there are a lot of dog owners in this beachside hamlet (though they're mostly retired people, usually with little yappy lapdogs), and it's just remotely possible that one of them is a retired dog trainer or handler, and we can at least ask if they've had experience with RRs. We could put a note up in the local shop window, and look in the Yellow Pages and the local Business Directory and see if there's anything that Alan's prepared to drive to and can find the time to drive to, even just once or twice. Kim is at least great in the car. Once his harness is snapped onto the seatbelt he just sits there and watches the view or goes to sleep.

As for tiring him out, we are very, very highly conscious of that already. Alan's major focus of each day re Kim is to tire him out as much as possible so he'll be easier to live with, and he does get quite a lot of exercise, charging around chasing things and sometimes playing with other dogs down the beach, where they spend at least a couple of hours daily in addition to a couple of ordinary walks and/or bike runs. He also has a Springer bicycle attachment which I bought and mounted to his bicycle which he sometimes uses to give Kim a run. (Yes, we keep him on the grass and don't let him run too far at his age, and try not to overstress his growing bones, though when he's playing with Alan or another dog down the beach he barrels along like a stocky Greyhound and to stop him doing that would be to not exercise him and not bleed off his very abundant energy, so I don't know how or where we should be drawing the line there.)

it it is in fact partly in aid of tiring him out that Alan does play these games with him in the front yard, if he hasn't got time to take him down the beach for his real exercise. Alan was trying to play the closest RR approximation of 'fetch' which Kim would accept, but Kim had other ideas and 'fetch' always gets sidetracked. We both know that he's not a retriever and that RRs don't do 'fetch', but Kim does love to chase any moving object and pounce on it, so he will play 'fetch' by RR rules up to a point, that point being when he decides to leap up at Alan rather than at the stick he's about to throw.

And there are a few people with dogs whom Alan and Kim have met and made friends with and which, if they meet (and I've been suggesting to him a regular meet-up daily for a while now, but he hasn't got around to it), will allow the dogs to play together (although what actually happens is that Kim does all the chasing and the other dog mostly just runs away, either in play or for real: even other dogs his size or bigger, e.g. a big full-grown Labrador he plays with down the beach sometimes) find him a bit overpoweringly enthusiastic and rumbunctious. One, an herding/obedience-trained Border Collie who will be our next door neighbour when our cottage at the other end of the village is finally finished being built in six weeks or so, simply couldn't take it and just ran and kept running at full speed to just get away, not liking it at all, while Kim joyfully and relentlessly chased the poor dog. So unfortunately what he's learnt so far about the dog 'pack order' is that he's at the top of it. But there's a big, macho-looking bloke with what looks like a bull terrier (I've only seen it once from a distance, months ago) who will also be a neighbour when we've moved, and whose dog can apparently just about cope psychologically if not physically (short legs; Kim will have to run doughnuts around him), and who has agreed already that Kim and his dog can be playmates. But that's all a couple of months away; a long time in the puberty of a RR.

There are a pair of what, at a guess I would say (being no expert) were British Bulldog x Boxers (they look like Winston Churchill but are a little too narrow, tall and leggy to be pure Bulldogs, I think) around the corner from where we are now, and I've been trying to get Alan to introduce himself and Kim to the people there for a while now. But they're out every time either of us has been there and seem to be out every day. I went up to the gate yesterday with Kim as part of my walk, and although he had been dismissive of the various little dogs which yapped at us when we went past other houses, he took these two seriously and seemed intimidated by their confident attitudes, even though he's substantially bigger than the bigger of the pair.

But they were a pretty intimidating pair, growling and barking at the gate and, unlike the little yappy dogs, really meaning it (I wouldn't have walked through that gate, with or without Kim). And though I hung around for a bit to see if friends could be made, I couldn't attract any human attention (the blocks here are 1 acre sized and the house was set back, though in full view), and don't think anyone was at home or they'd have come out to see what all the protracted barking was about. They were defending their territory; fair enough. With suitable introductions I still reckon they'd at least be a match for him psychologically, which would be a first, but the owner/s would have to be there, and they never are. So the big bloke with the bull terrier is the only dog on our radar atm, and that's not going to happen until we move.

As for desexing, he was desexed a few weeks ago, but he doesn't seem to have noticed, and the vet said it could take from six weeks to six months to have a noticeable effect on his behaviour. Fwiw, he still hasn't matured enough to have started cocking his leg; he still squats to piss, like a puppy. But if either of you watched the YouTube video of him playing with the Aussie Cattle Dog, you might have noticed some, "I'll show you mine if you show me yours" body language from both. Kim had only just been desexed a week when that was shot, and that Red Heeler is apparently a 16 month old undesexed bitch. (The first question her owner, the plumber at our building site, asked Alan when he saw Kim looking abundantly male and well-endowed — as he does — was, "Has he been neutered?").

Caro,

As for trying soap, I just did. Alan got a cake of soap from the bathroom and I handed it to him and he tried to eat it, and kept trying, dropping it only because it's slippery and picking it up again to chew some more, with every sign of enjoyment. Even with his history of trying to eat anything and everything, I wasn't expecting that. He only stopped because the cat distracted him and he went off to play with her. He will, it seems, cheerfully eat soap, and probably anything else you can think of that he might not like, although I'm open to more suggestions. I haven't tried kerosene or diesel oil yet; I don't really fancy them on my skin or trust them not to damage the nylon leash, so I've been saving them up as a last resort …

But the list of things we have already tried includes, but is not limited to, double-strength cat/dog repellent, the very potent flavours of teatree, wintergreen and eucalyptus oils, the very bitter juice of Aloe vera leaves and chilli pepper. He will lick, and has licked, all of these off my hands with evident relish when he's come over for a friendly lick/chew and I've had them on my hands at the time. There is apparently nothing he will not eat or try to, and also apparently enjoy.

Part of the baggage which he still carries from his abusive early childhood is a hatred of leashes or cord of any kind tethering him in any way. He has already chewed through one expensive harness (the chest strap, which he could reach while wearing the harness) and one, almost two, expensive leashes. We had to use a harness initially because he would not walk if a leash was attached to his collar: he'd sit down on his bum, dig all four paws in and look terrified and determined. He'd clearly been dragged along against his will by his previous abusive owner and had something very traumatic done to him.

We started off without any leash at all while we earned his trust and fed him homoeopathic fear remedies, then got him used to the harness which, not tugging him at the neck, wasn't so threatening to him. Now he just chews his leash whenever he's frustrated or bored at the beginning of a walk or if we stop, and he can do a lot of damage in a very short time these days; he bit right through a $120 retractable leash in less than a minute yesterday. So we've tried a lot of different things on the other leash to stop him ruining it (it's an expensive 5 metre heavy duty retractable one; he'd never have tolerated a fixed leash).

We also try giving him other things to chew for general day-to-day chewing behaviour, but what I've noticed (and this is probably stating the obvious, though in all my months of RR and dog-related researches I've never seen the distinction clearly spelt out or even mentioned) is that there are two types of chewing: there's the type which will be satisfied with a bone, for when he just has an urge to chew, and we keep up a good supply of real and fake rawhide bones etc, for that. But the other sort of chewing is an interpersonal, "let's play' message, leading quickly into play-biting; he wants to play, hence the play-biting. Right from the start I tried to keep something other than human skin between us and in his mouth, i.e. a toy or a piece of rag wrapped in a ball, and he'd wrestle, tug and play. But he still prefers my hand and arm, and I suppose that's because the instinct comes from play-biting other puppies in the litter and other dogs in play-fights, which means skin-to-skin contact with its 'live' feel and feedback.

I still always try to keep something between us and I always say firmly, "No bite!" when he tries it on with my hand. But the play-fighting seems to be part and parcel of the whole dominance thing, which is why, before puberty, he stopped play-biting me immediately and completely for at least six weeks after I took that tip from another RR forum and grabbed the scruff of his neck and intimidated him with eye contact from above etc, the message then being 'mummy doesn't like it, so stop it now!'.

But maybe he's too old for 'scruff of the neck' to have much meaning now; it certainly didn't work yesterday, though pretending to 'go for his throat' did. Maybe it has to be 'more dominant dog in the pack doesn't like it, so stop it now!' at this age.

What I did yesterday with him – my dominant dog act – seems to have borne some fruit anyway, although we'll now have to find a way to maintain it. I'm typing this 24 hrs later, and Alan has said he was a lot easier to handle today, only tried to jump up once during a walk and stayed down once he was pushed down and didn't jump up again. He hasn't tried biting me today either, though lots more licking. He seems just generally more calm and peaceful. I read in a 'human - dog pack hierarchy' article once that a dog feels more stable and secure knowing his or her place in the hierarchy. I don't know if that's true or not, but Kim seems calmer and less hyperactive today than before.

We always, every time, whole-heartedly and without exception, praise him mightily when he does something right (it's such a nice feeling that we don't even have to remember to try; we really are as pleased as we seem to be), but we have both got somewhat lax lately on the rewards front. We used to carry them everywhere in our pockets and do obedience sessions with every walk, e.g. getting him to sit before crossing a road and then rewarding him if and when he did it, even if we had to force his bum down because he was watching a butterfly or staring into space and not listening. I don't know if it was his past or if he's naturally just up at the more stubborn end of the RR spectrum, but even though he would get a tasty bite-sized reward every single time he did, or was made to do, what he was told (and I've always operated by the 'make sure he always, always ends up doing what we've told him to do, so he never gets the idea that ignoring us is acceptable, or even an option' and he's gobbled literally hundreds of treats by now, only when he's obeyed a command and at no other time, so as to instal and reinforce the concept, 'obedience = tasty snack and there's no other way of getting a tasty snack', he's been a very slow learner in the obedience stakes, though he's very quick and bright in areas which interest and attract him.

Maybe we would have got there in the end with perseverance, and maybe if I can get Alan to start doing it all regularly again or if my health improves for a bit or if Kim calms down a lot, we still will. But certainly over the last few months that routine has slipped dramatically, I suppose because Alan finds it easier just to treat him like a Labrador and accommodate his behaviour and I've been too busy having migraines to even know what's been happening. Neither of us is a disciplinarian by nature, and I would much prefer to treat him like a Labrador as well. I don't enjoy training the way some people apparently do, although I do appreciate the results. But the difference is that I *can* be firm and dominant when I know there's a good reason, even though I don't enjoy it, but Alan just can't. He can go through the motions, though he usually doesn't even do that these days due to his stress/busyness levels and his big issue with conflict. But even when he does, Kim sees right through it and reads it for what it is; an act with no substance behind it.

There's no question but that we, in our situation and with our characters, are not ideal RR owner material, but we are both doing our best and we both really really love him and don't want to 'trade him in for an easier model', to put it crudely. All of you who love RRs for what they are will understand why. Once you're under that RR spell, there's no going back. Needless to say, Kim doesn't want to be 'traded in' either. If only we could reason with him; that's what we both did successfully with our respective sons, and it worked very well. Learning to speak Dog, RR Dialect is harder than we expected.

Offline rrbylexus

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2010, 09:49 AM »
In one of your earlier posts, you mentioned that you had befriended an RR breeder in your area, I wonder if he/she could come out and help you with Kim?  As for professional trainers, there are some that are very experienced with RRs, you just have to research each one, ask questions, etc.  And you can get trainers to come to your home, which would best suit your situation since the trainer could watch each family member interact with Kim in his home.

You never mentioned any mental stimulation being provided for Kim, only the physical.  Trust me, sometimes it's easier to tire them out mentally.  Try finding a Buster Cube or other mental stimulation toy..  Following are some links you can research that have some great suggestions
http://www.bustercube.com/
http://www.k9station.com/mentalstim.htm 
http://www.petplace.com/dogs/mental-stimulation-for-your-dog/page1.aspx

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Pam Mathews
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Offline Gairlochan

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Is he a purebred?
« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2010, 10:22 AM »
In one of your earlier posts, you mentioned that you had befriended an RR breeder in your area, I wonder if he/she could come out and help you with Kim?  As for professional trainers, there are some that are very experienced with RRs, you just have to research each one, ask questions, etc.  And you can get trainers to come to your home, which would best suit your situation since the trainer could watch each family member interact with Kim in his home.

You never mentioned any mental stimulation being provided for Kim, only the physical.  Trust me, sometimes it's easier to tire them out mentally.  Try finding a Buster Cube or other mental stimulation toy..  Following are some links you can research that have some great suggestions
http://www.bustercube.com/
http://www.k9station.com/mentalstim.htm 
http://www.petplace.com/dogs/mental-stimulation-for-your-dog/page1.aspx

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

Pam Mathews

Hello Pam,

Unfortunately the breeder I mentioned, while very knowledgeable and helpful, is on the other side of the big pond in the UK; I 'met' her on the Ridgebackchat forum and sent her some pics of Kim and a description by e-mail. I have not been able to find a RR breeder closer than three hours' drive from here (6 hrs return journey plus time spent there, even assuming the breeder would be prepared to help us and have the time).

The mental stimulation is something I hadn't really given thought to. I'll definitely follow up your suggestion and links. Kim's a bright lad and likes to use his brains as well as his considerable brawn.

Thanks for the tip!

Btw, that breeder, Sue Craigie, gave it as her opinion that Kim was a purebred, just sold as a cross to a new designer breed because that sort of thing's all the rage atm, and because the buyer wanted Kim and his littermate sister for pig hunting, for which Bull Arabs were bred in the first place but for which RRs, being bailing dogs rather than 'grabbing and holding' dogs (which is what pig-hunting dogs need to be) would be on the lightweight side and have the wrong mindset. (Grab hold of a lion and it's the last thing you'll ever grab hold of!)

I was on Ridgebackchat recently and I posted the links I have to three videos of Kim which I've put up on YouTube, to see if other owners, breeders etc think he looks like a pure RR or a cross. I got four replies, two from moderators and two from experienced regular posters, and if I include the very knowledgeable Sue Craigie of Imbali Kennels, UK, I get a total of five knowledgeable people who think Kim's almost certainly a 'Slickback' (ridgeless) RR being sold as a Bull Arab cross under false pretences. They all think he looks pure RR.

I'll post the links below and also, if I can stay awake long enough, update and post my site with lots of photos of Kim on it in a new thread in the main forum, asking people what they think. But fwiw, here are the YouTube links. I'd appreciate your opinion and that of anyone else reading this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6hohmq4MhI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwbDF70PsbQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuGAnBc-duo&NR=1

This, for comparison purposes, is a link to the Bull Arab website:
http://www.bullarab.com.au/index.php?page=arab-gallery

Any and all opinions welcome. I'd like to just be able to say, "He's a Ridgeback" instead of  trying to explain what a Bull Arab is, and how no, it's not a kind of Bulldog or Bull Terrier etc. I always wanted a Ridgeback, and we already know the previous owner had lied about other things, and has probably been lied to himself by the backyard breeder (I'm assuming he came from a backyard breeder, otherwise he would have cost a great deal more).

Best,

Lachlan

Offline rrbylexus

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2010, 10:48 AM »
Just took a look at the videos you posted up.  Kim very well could be a pure RR, the only thing that suggests otherwise is the light colored eyes, however there are pure RRs with the light eyes.  I do think he's a bit on the heavy side, a good rule of thumb on weight is, at least on RRs, is you should be able to see a faint outline of the ribs at all times on the dog.  You also should not see a dimple above the tail set.

After watching the video of your husband playing with Kim, I have a simple training suggestion.  Kim should have to work for EVERYTHING he gets. Meaning, in order to get the stick thrown for him, he should have to sit beside your husband before the stick is thrown.  He should have to sit and stay for a treat.  Same goes for going outside or through door ways, he should have to sit and then wait for the human to walk through the door way first, then he can walk through.  Sit and wait for the food bowl to be placed in front of him is also a good exercise.  These exercises place the humans as the pack leaders, Kim has to wait for food, play rewards, going out and pet/love rewards.

Pam Mathews
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Offline Gairlochan

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2010, 12:25 PM »
Just took a look at the videos you posted up.  Kim very well could be a pure RR, the only thing that suggests otherwise is the light colored eyes, however there are pure RRs with the light eyes.  I do think he's a bit on the heavy side, a good rule of thumb on weight is, at least on RRs, is you should be able to see a faint outline of the ribs at all times on the dog.  You also should not see a dimple above the tail set.

After watching the video of your husband playing with Kim, I have a simple training suggestion.  Kim should have to work for EVERYTHING he gets. Meaning, in order to get the stick thrown for him, he should have to sit beside your husband before the stick is thrown.  He should have to sit and stay for a treat.  Same goes for going outside or through door ways, he should have to sit and then wait for the human to walk through the door way first, then he can walk through.  Sit and wait for the food bowl to be placed in front of him is also a good exercise.  These exercises place the humans as the pack leaders, Kim has to wait for food, play rewards, going out and pet/love rewards.

Pam Mathews

Hello again Pam,

I had a look at the video of him playing in the front yard, where you get a close-up of his head from the side at the end and can see his left eye close up (they're both the same colour), and I think there's something going on with the way the sunlight's reflecting off the eyeball from the back or something; they look almost yellow. I've looked at them many times closely in good lighting conditions (I love looking at him) and his eyes are hazel, almost the same colour as his coat but with a little less red and just a tad lighter, but there's not much in it. I don't know what colour they're supposed to be, but the purebred RR in this link has similar coloured eyes to Kim's, though Kim's coat is darker than hers:

http://www.petsplace.co.za/Rhodesian%20Ridgeback%20Lume.jpg

There is definitely a dimple above his tail, so maybe we should be limiting his food intake a bit. It is possible to see his ribs in cross-lighting, but only just. He's quite circumspect about his meals generally, and doesn't just go straight for them and gobble everything up. Sometimes he leaves them completely untouched and eats hardly anything for days. It was only for the first few weeks when he was recovering from malnutrition that he would eat non-stop if allowed to. But that's not to say he isn't a tad overweight, if that dimple shouldn't be there at his age. But I wonder if he's laying down a bit of fat for a growth spurt. He had one at around 6 1/2 - 7 months when he went from about 27 Kg to 35 Kg, and he hasn't put on so much as a kilo for the last two months, so do you think maybe he has a growth spurt coming up soon and is 'laying down supplies'?

He has always sat politely and waited for his food, much to our surprise, but he doesn't understand the concept of the command 'stay' at all. I was just starting to teach it to him when I got laid out with the migraines. And for such an exuberant, not to mention clingy, dog it's a really hard one. He understands 'sit' but not 'stay sitting'. As he's so slow at learning anything to do with obedience (we've been working on 'sit' almost since the day we got him and he still only does it in contexts where he's used to it, e.g. mealtimes, and at other times only when he feels like it; we still usually have to shove his bum down with brute force to get him to sit … it varies.

We do walk through doors and eat meals before him, though we don't get him to sit first before walking through the doors; I never saw it mentioned anywhere in my reading and researches. But we don't walk him to heel. I know you're supposed to, but frankly, I don't think I could stand it and I'm sure Alan couldn't. I just hope it's not too important.

He gets a treat when he's obeyed, or been forced to obey, a command, and at no other time. He loves the treats and they are a good motivator. If he hears the crackle of the plastic treat bag his bum hits the floor as soon as I say sit and his eyes are locked on that bag. But as soon as he gets the treat he's up and off. At least, if he's in my bedroom with no distractions, but if he's outside …

It's difficult to convey how much of a strain the effort of proper training is, when because of the seriousness of my illness we're both running low on emotional energy and I'm on near empty. So we know we should be doing more, and that we will pay for it in spades if we don't do it now while he's young, but that knowledge doesn't generate any more emotional energy for taking on the serious and demanding task of training an abused RR when we were already near our limits from coping with the illness day in and day out, and trying to build a house as well. It's a far from ideal situation and I doubt he'll ever be a model of obedience, but we'd rather just do the best we can and live with it than take him to the pound, knowing he might end up being put down. Not to mention that we couldn't bear to part with him now anyway, rebel that he is. He has so many endearing traits that I haven't mentioned and don't need to, because everyone on this forum will already know most of them or a close equivalent.

Having this illness has taught me to live with less than ideal situations and accept my limitations. All we can do is our best, and at least we have miles of empty beach for him to play on in the worst case scenario of him being impossible to have around other people. I hope that doesn't happen, but at least if it does we'll be able to deal with it and he won't end up in a shelter. That at least we can promise him.

Lachlan

Offline caro

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2010, 03:34 PM »
Lachlan, Don't beat yourself up over Kim's not being a perfectly behaved boy.  Most of us put up with less than perfect dogs, but we always aspire to perfection. ;D  We learn to deal with the problem children and as long as we know what triggers their less than desirable behavior we can be prepared.  The jumping and biting is a puppy thing and will probably pass but you need to discourage it all the same.  Sounds like he is a bit hard headed so you may have to be tough with him.  I had a Lab at one time who was like that.  Gentle encouragement went in one ear and out the other and she continued on her merry way.  Much as I hated to do it, she needed some strong words for something to sink in.  Not the brightest dog in the world!

I would agree with you about going for a walk with your dog constantly at heel.  Sounds like you live in a small township and away from the big city, so you probably don't have to worry about traffic and such.  However, I am guessing that like me, you don't have very strong arms and need to prevent pulling.  Those flexi leads really don't do the job.  Try the Sporn halter, there is no way he can reach the straps to chew them and they really do control the pulling.  Once he learns to listen to you--and it sounds like he is responding to treats so try the Watch Me game--then you can relax and put him on a longer leash for more freedom.  You have to keep a watchful eye for anything that could cause problems and when you do, stop and give him the trigger word so he looks at you and the treat you have in front of your nose.  When he is concentrating on you, then you can give him the treat and continue on, repeating the exercise as soon as he starts to look like he is going to jump or lunge.

With the biting, just yell very loudly when he bites you and take your arm out of his reach and walk away ignoring him.  Ridgebacks hate to be ignored.  He will get the message eventually.

Caroline

Offline Gairlochan

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Re: Lachlan and Kim - Queensland, Australia
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2010, 10:45 AM »
I absolutely agree, Kim is a ridgeless ridgeback.  I would guess there's not even anything else in there.  I have seen those heads before. 

Two things come to mind, he really is too fat.  You need to get a number of kgs. off him.  However, he certainly gets lots of exercise and has obviously built up a lot of muscle.  He's one lucky boy to have found you.  He really isn't any worse than a lot of RR puppies his age.

I have one suggestion though, I think you should discourage Alan from wrestling with him like that, at least for a while.  In their play he is actually encouraging him to jump at people and launch himself.  It's fun when they are small, but not when they are full grown as they can flatten you in a second.  Try tying a plastic bag on the end of a fishing line and cast the line and see if he will chase the bag as you pull it in.  This is a way of training them for coursing and it is a great game for puppies.  If you don't have a fishing pole, see if you can get a lunge whip at the local tack shop and tie the bag to the end of the lunge whip, then drag the bag along the ground, but I would encourage him to focus on the ground rather than on anything higher.  Also, I noticed when he came back after chasing the cat, Alan gave him a treat.  Try not giving him a treat, but greet his return with lots of "good boy" "well-done"  big pats and verbal encouragement for coming home.  (He could well have kept on going and you would have had to go out through the bush to get him!)  By the way, that was one brave cat!

He's a great dog and once he grows up I am sure he will be a wonderful companion to you both.  The puppy time is difficult to get through, but it does improve with time.

Caroline

Hello Caroline,

Our vet also told us he was carrying a few extra kilos, but we haven't really done anything about it, as his appetite varies from day to day, so just 'giving him less food' is more tricky than it sounds. How would you recommend we get his weight down? Give him a usual amount and remove it when he's eaten most of it and is slowing down, but still would eat more? Obviously I'm not the one who feeds him; Alan feeds both of us. But any tips would be appreciated.

Now that this thread has gone on from being an introduction to a 'what shall I do about x,y,z?', you could have a look at my other one in the 'New Owner' forum:

http://rr-forum.com/forum/index.php/topic,7586.0.html

It's all about the problems we've been having with his 'throwing high tackles' and jumping up, play-biting etc, and you can look upwards to my earlier replies to see how it came about and what we're trying to do about it. That would be tidier than my repeating it all, and you might have suggestions that others haven't already given. But I have already asked Alan not to encourage that kind of play.

I always make him get down when he jumps up, and he wants so much to jump up that he's found a new way of doing it: he'll jump up quickly and then back off down before I get the chance even to say, "Down!" or grab him to put him down. And turning my back (and Alan has the same experience) doesn't deter him a bit. He jumps up on our backs and almost decks us. It scratches the skin on our backs and hurts, and we both hate it. He doesn't care which way we're facing. It mostly happens when he's excited. When he sees me for the first time in the morning or when Alan's come home from a shopping trip into town, or if he hears the word, "Walk" or sees us getting the harness and leash ready. Two hands and a firm voice are just not enough at that point!

I'm no fisherwoman so I don't know all the terminology of the coursing game is a bit beyond me, but I think I get the gist of your suggestion. We've got a long bamboo pole, very strong, which we could use. And there are lots of fisherpeople who fish from the beach here, so if that didn't work it wouldn't be hard to pick up a s/h fishing rod. That sounds like an excellent game for a breed who doesn't do 'fetch', for keeping him down, tiring him out and having fun at the same time. I'm sure he'd love it, as we play a slightly similar game on the bed as you might with a cat, where I put my hand under the duvet (quilt) and move it around, and he gets really worked up chasing it with paws and mouth. Being mostly bedridden has made me fairly adaptable as regards dog entertainment. I can even play 'fetch' (after a fashion) with him from my bed.

He's really not good at coming when called, and actually it's very rare that we would give him a treat for coming when called, although I was thinking of a two-part approach to improve his responsiveness, which involved treats. It was to have him on a long lead of some sort at least once every day and try to instil an association between being called and actually coming automatically, regardless of the butterfly, kid on bike or whatever he's watching that's making him 'deaf'. The slightest thing makes him go 'deaf', btw; he's a very independent thinker. I'd reasoned that if he rambled on the long line and we practised calling him and tugging him towards us simultaneously, so he'd associate being called with automatically coming to us regardless, rather than just when he had nothing more interesting to do. And to make it better from his point of view, I'd intended to give him a treat when he arrived, even if we'd had to literally reel him in all the way. What do you think of this scheme, and why do you you recommend no treats for coming when called? I can testify that lots of praise etc, does not work, on him at least. It's what we've always done and it's not enough.

Re the cat, I think that's the first time he's ever chased her, and it was only because she went a bit mad herself. She's from next door but lives with us part-time, and Kim is besotted with her and follows her everywhere in the house, sleeps with her on my bed, and will whine and scratch at the door, not to get out but to make us let her in! She's dog-savvy, having grown up with next door's Husky, but in common with most dogs Kim meets, she doesn't want to play as rough as Kim does; in fact she doesn't want to play with him at all, and he can't understand that. He pesters her to play sometimes, and she'll either hiss and slap him across the nose or she'll run into another room occasionally when she finds his attentions a bit too much.

When we move out of this 'no pets' rental house into our own, which will be ready to move into in six weeks or so, we'll be getting some Bengal cats (we both really love cats, and weren't actually intending to get a dog). There are lots of YouTube videos of Bengal cats playing rough with RRs and other breeds and really enjoying it, so I think they'll be the best breed for us. But I'll get another Siamese just for old time's sake and because I love the voice and the looks (well, the whole package). So that should be better for Kim than a standard moggie who just wants to sleep all day, however dog-savvy. And better for the cats. Seeing Bengals leaping up high and play-fighting RRs is an amazing sight, and there's quite a bit of it on YouTube if you're curious.

I used to have a little female tabby who protected all our other cats from roving dogs (there were lots of them when I was growing up) by chasing anything canine which came into our cat-filled yard. All the other cats would scatter, but this little tabby would go straight for the dog, regardless of its size and attitude, and chase it off the property and about fifty metres down the road. She did it to a mate's big Alsatian once, after he'd been bragging about his dog, and that put a major dent in his ego!

I'm glad to hear that things will ease up as he grows out of puppyhood. I just also wonder how big he's going to end up. He's about 21 − 22" at the withers (can't get him to stay still enough to measure him accurately), and was 35 Kg / 75 lb when last weighed a month or so ago; probably gained a few kilos since then. He had reached those dimensions by 7 months old after a growth spurt, and I'm wondering, given his doubtful provenance, just what to expect in the way of height when fully grown. Care to hazard a guess?

You can see some more pic's of Kim on the website I've just put together, once the MobileMe server stops playing up and I can get the site up.  On the '7 − 9 month' link there's a video of him following the cat, Piper, around in the house if you scroll down a bit, and also one of him playing 'chase' under the bedclothes, though both are a little dark due to incandescent lighting. Here's the link (the site will be up eventually):

http://web.mac.com/gairlochan/Site/Gairlochan.html

There are a couple more YouTube videos of him now, one of him running next to my husband's bike on a Springer bike attachment, an excellent way of bleeding of energy quickly, and the other of him watching some roos grazing across the road. Fortunately, he didn't decide to go after them; just watched. If he ever went after one and managed to catch it (they don't move as fast as you'd think), he'd be at risk of getting kicked to death. Big buck roos (six footers with muscles like a boxer) will stare you down and not move out of the way, and you have to walk around them politely. They used to fight under our front verandah where we lived before here and they made a tremendous din! But they seem smaller here near the coast, unfortunately for Kim, as he stands a chance of catching a smaller one. And if he tries to close with it … I don't want to think about it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coPYW3ihyw0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coPYW3ihyw0

best, Lachlan

Offline caro

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2010, 02:57 PM »
I will try to split off the earlier posts on Kim from your Intro.  It takes a few minutes for me to do it and I need to concentrate or I will really mess up.  or perhaps Melissa who is more savvy about these things can do it. 

I have successfully gotten weight off before by substituting green beans for some of the kibble.  Green beans make them feel like they are eating a big meal but they  actually go straight through.  If you are feeding kibble, I would tend to feed two small meals a day rather than one big one.  You can supplement with veggies but go easy on other table scraps, and definitely on the treats, which was why I suggested verbal praise as a reward.

Unfortunately, I think Kim has gotten it into his head that jumping at humans whether it be front or back is part of this big game he has with Alan, but he is not distinguishing between Alan and other people!!  Definitely keep the games focused on the ground rather than in the air.  Actually dragging anything along the ground at a distance from you can be good exercise.  I thought of a fishing rod, because you could actually sit in a chair and cast the plastic bag and reel him in.  Try putting something really smelly like a hot dog in the bag and that will add to his enthusiasm.  But you could do something similar with a lunge whip, standing in the center of a circle and moving the whip around, always with the lure (bag) on the ground.

I agree huning roos is not a good idea for a dog.  Had a friend a while back who used to hunt wild goat in Victoria with his Ridgebacks, but one of them was particularly fond of going after roos so he had a special body armor made for her because she would get kicked and break a rib.

You are so lucky living where you do.  I have relatives in Cairns and loved my visit there, though it is a bit "tropical" at times.  Only visited Brisbane briefly though.  I think there are some good breeders of RRs in Brisbane.  Doesn't Cindy Burton live there?  Her kennel is Bearstar.

There's a lady in Denmark who breeds both RRs and Bengals.  Not sure if the two mix though.  Another friend has a Maine Coon cat which is a great buddy to her Ridgeback.

Caroline
 

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2010, 04:24 PM »
The green beans are a GREAT suggestion Caroline, one that I have used many times with the dogs.  One quick thought though.  If using canned green beans be sure and rinse them really well to get all the sodium off of them.

Seems I remember a post on rr-folk years ago where a guy had taken his pack of RRs wild goat hunting and one of the dogs went after a Roo instead.  Seems like the Roo led the RR into the water and I believe the Roo actually drowned the dog. :-( 

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Offline melissap

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #12 on: July 09, 2010, 07:55 PM »
I would give a 3rd suggestion on the green beans!
Also, I do not free feed my dogs - my male got 2 cups in the am and 2 in the pm. He was a big muscular boy as well. Biking is great, but also caution as too much can be hard on his developing joints :)

On the dominant behavior: I read part of your post about finding a trainer that can come to your home, but I was not able to read the whole thing (my apologies) - but I do hope that is a possibility!

There are many threads about training on the forum and I gather your husband should be working with someone or doing some reading to understand his role as "pack leader" Kim needs a firm but fair hand and lots of consistency in encouraging the good behaviors and discouraging the less than desirable ones!

They are smart dogs and he will learn quickly - but the same rule applies as with a little pup - never let them miss behave because if they see "wiggle room" in what is allowed, they will not see the big picture!

Lots of luck :)
Melissa

PS: Caroline I will try and merge the topics and posts - I am gone all day tomorrow, but will do it by Sunday at teh latest! Lachlan, thank you for redirecting this conversation to the existing thread!
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Offline Gairlochan

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #13 on: July 11, 2010, 07:35 AM »
Green beans sound like a great idea.  We eat mostly organic, fresh, unprocessed produce and live in a climate where fresh veges are available year round, so that should be easy. He loves veges and always has; he loves fruit too, and fish if we have it. The perfect dog for a mostly vegetarian family. We do of course give him meat and would not try to foist our preferences or beliefs on a natural carnivore; he just happens to prefer a mix of meat with lots of veges to pure meat if given the choice. In fact, I've yet to find anything he won't eat or try to, including bars of soap and similar, nasty-tasting substances.

The 'coursing' with a fishing rod and something to drag sounds like an excellent game for Kim. I just watched some RR coursing on YouTube and I can see how he would enjoy it immensely. Just wish I'd known about it five months ago when he was little (well, littler) …

Someone mentioned, in the introduction thread I think, about not using sticks, especially big ones, for throwing as they could damage his mouth. Something called a 'ragger' was mentioned as an alternative. I don't know what a 'ragger' is, but if it's a big rag tied up into knots (which is what the word suggests to me) then I think he'd love it, although he'd also demolish it; I use a ball of rag in my hand for play-fighting, and once he starts chewing it, it doesn't last long. His molars grind the cloth into shreds. All our rags are pure cotton though, which is a weak fabric, so I'd probably have to get something tougher like nylon to make it out of. Any info or suggestions welcome, as usual.

I couldn't find the really spectacular Bengal/Ridgeback playfights when I searched YouTube this time (as usual), so I've pasted what links I could find. They don't all have RRs in them but they all have Bengals playfighting some sort of dog (and usually starting the fight too), and as it's the Bengals you don't know and the RRs that you do, I've copied all the links. Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFSeQUe8lfk&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgFlfsAOGCY&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElAX6RN47zo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8LZHuKe6gM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=No41ZDOS22M&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tUPBXjYYKc&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grmk9gynthc&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OXycwNJN_s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvDnCDZjflM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4bRNqQ32MI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGOjsxYBn-8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfW09TLGi_4&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HZ-gdHmICY

2 meals? We're not sure of his exact birthdate, but he's at least 9 1/2 months old by our best reckoning. How many meals should he be getting at that age? When he arrived aged 4 1/2 months old he needed two meals (more than that at first, as he had been starved), and we're stil giving him two. Now that I know he's overweight, I had thought of trying to get some weight off him by giving him a square meal in the morning and letting him burn it off and turn it into muscle during his daily exercise, and only give him a small meal in the evening, or no meal at all, depending on how truly hungry he seems to be, just to get him through the night, the same sort of philosophy humans with a tendency to weight gain sometimes apply (he's still growing so his appetite is very variable).

Pam, I can well imagine the roo drowning the dog. Male roos and wallabies fight not by any kind or 'boxing', as has been traditionally portrayed, but by grasping each other around the upper body and then bouncing up in the air just enough to bring their hind feet forward for that gut-ripping kick. Each male roo or wallaby tries for the highest ground as it's a hard trick to pull off facing uphill. I've seen one roo kick another about 20 - 30 feet, rolling and tumbling, downhill. I've also been up close to one which was down but not out after a non-lethal rifle bullet to the body, myself armed with nothing heavier than a .22 . Seeing those feet kicking up at me from such close range while trying in the half-light for a head shot is an experience I'll never forget. (This was in sheep country where land cleared by graziers provided free, abundant roo food, which caused massive increases in kangaroo numbers over their 'natural' population, and roo culling was necessary. Our neighbours had seven dogs working the sheep on their large station and as pets, and they shot a roo a day and divided it up for free dog food. I personally have hunted a little, but never for sport. I really hate killing things.) So the roo would have grabbed the dog in a 'roo-hug' and, by virtue of superior weight and considerable upper body strength, pulled the dog under. I've never seen a roo go into the water by choice, but being chased by a big dog might do the trick!

   ⁃   Caro, the treats I give him are little bits of freeze-dried, natural, pure fish flakes, each piece about the size of half a child's little finger. And as we just don't have the energy and space in our lives for serious, intensive training, he doesn't get all that many of them in a day anyway, so I doubt that's where the excess weight's coming from. My guess is it's the carbohydrates from the grain element in the tinned food (though the brand we give him is mostly veges rather than grain filler), and the slices of wholemeal toast and bread which Alan gives him. Maybe a toast embargo would be in order; he'd sell his soul AND his body for a slice of toast!

Cairns would be too tropical for me too. Bundy is in between Cairns and Brisbane and is a good compromise. Pretty much right on the Tropic of Capricorn and on the coast, it never gets really steaming hot in the wet or much below 15 deg Celsius (60 deg Fahrenheit), as we only get 600mm (20") of rain a year, so it's dry heat and moderated by the sea across the road. We live in Moore Park Beach, a little beachside hamlet just 20+ Km north of Bundy which, though a little suburban for my tastes, is at least a nice, quiet, friendly place with a quite astonishing number of dogs and dog-owners, i.e. dog-savvy people who will be better able to cope with and understand Kim than otherwise.

-------------------------------------

   ⁃   Keeping track of two threads at once, one in the 'introduction' forum and one in the 'new owners' forum, is confusing me (I get mentally overloaded very easily due to the neurological nature of my illness). But in one of the threads, someone mentioned a type of harness or halter designed to stop him from pulling. I'm pleased to say that, although he has once pulled my husband Alan along against his will while wearing a properly-adjusted martingale collar, it was only because someone started a chainsaw up behind him and he was close to panicking. One of the few 'faults' he doesn't have in the least degree is that of 'pulling', so I have no trouble at all controlling him and our walks are much more about sniffing and seeing what the dogs nearby have been up to in this dog-centred hamlet than charging straight down to the beach with me in tow. Nevertheless, just in case he does get frightened and decides to pull me really hard, I walk him with a 'Gentle Leader' Easy-walk harness, which attaches to the leash at the front of the chest rather than at the neck or back, so if he pulls, he only ends up pulling himself around sideways. It's worked well on the few times he's wanted to head strongly towards or away from something; I can always pull him round without difficulty despite not being strong or fit … so far anyway.
   ⁃   
Someone else mentioned also that I should probably have him on a standard rather than retractable leash. Our retractable leash is the top brand one and has a very robust, reliable lock which I use all the time in situations where I need to be in control. But I got the retractable leash for two reasons: initially, because he had at some time in the past been dragged somewhere and somehow traumatised, he would not walk on a normal leash at all; just drop down on his bum and dig all four feet in, looking frightened. So initially we had to walk him without a leash at all, which considering he doesn't necessarily come when called was pretty dicey; lucky there's very little traffic around here. Secondly, it was so I could have a short walk, not being able to walk far, and he, on a long, retractable leash, would end up travelling a lot further than I did in his toings and froings. The former is no longer an issue, but the latter is, more and more as he grows and grows.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

   ⁃   Melissa, my husband does understand the concept of pack leader, intellectually anyway: it's just that he simply lacks the character traits to put it across to Kim. He's placid and gentle by nature and has a very strong tendency to avoid confrontation, either with humans or animals. He also has trouble with consistency and is very easily manipulated, either by children or animals. I've watched him make attempts at dominance and firmness, but they feel 'weak' to me, very much like the acts they are. They wouldn't fool me and I can see that they don't fool Kim either. For instance, I never get pestered when I'm eating because I've never given Kim tidbits from my plate. Kim would love to share my meal and sometimes gazes despairingly in the direction of my bowl for a few seconds, but he knows he'll get nothing until I'm finished and then he'll only get to lick the plate. But Alan can't bear the big brown eyes gazing longingly at him at close range, the whining, the shifting eagerly from paw to paw etc, and gives him the odd tidbit, so Kim sits next to Alan's chair at mealtimes and stares and whines. Surprise, surprise. It's a pity I'm the invalid, because although I'm not a bossy, domineering person, I do have the backbone to say what I mean and mean what I say; just a little heritage from my bossy, domineering father ;-).

Also, re the bicycle exercising, that was Alan's first go at it, and he hadn't really taken in my caution about staying on the grass. He now has, and only rides where Kim will be on grass or other soft surface. That makes it harder work for Alan, but then he knows he could lose a few kilos too, so no problem there! I don't take Kim out on the bike, because riding on grass is far to exhausting for me. When he's a bit older I'll take him on the footpath though, because it's a very enjoyable pursuit for both of us and Kim always has a big grin on his map at the end of a ride. I suppose it's the closest thing he ever gets to running with either of us as fellow pack members, though even on a bicycle we could never get close to matching his speed. I'm not well and Alan's in his fifties and not getting any younger …It's about the only time when I wish (temporarily) that he was a puller; he could pull me along and save my energy while expending more himself ;-)

I'm going to start a couple of new topics because the whole situation has just altered dramatically this afternoon, and before we make the final life-changing move we're planning on making I'd like as much advice and as many tips as possible. So please, all of you helpful people, look for a thread in this forum called something like, 'Brother and sister reunion. Another RR in the family'. I also gained some new information today by chatting with the neighbours of Kim's previous owner, and have a better idea of his actual bloodline, so look for a short post to that effect. This one's getting a bit long and unwieldy :-)

best, Lachlan

Offline caro

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #14 on: July 11, 2010, 09:22 AM »
Yes, it probably would help to break down your posts into different subjects so we can answer your questions more easily.

I am going to address the feeding issue:  I think each dog's ability to put on/lose weight varies so all one can do is generalize and then you must adjust according to what you think Kim needs.  I have a 14 week old puppy right now.  He was pretty thin when I picked him up but I kept on feeding him three times a day, one cup of adult kibble at each meal.  At one meal he would get a tablespoon of cottage cheese, and at another a tablespoon of yogurt, and at the third I would give him a little canned food, which is mostly water anyway but added some tasty gravy to the rather dry kibble.  Besides doing a growth spurt he has also put on weight and while he is still not as fat as my puppies in the past, he looks pretty good and I think it is just his type, long and lean.  I now only give the yogurt and cottage cheese a couple of times a week rather than daily.  There are some good low calorie dog foods on the market now.  I don't know what you can get in Australia, but I am feeding California Natural and Innova.  I know Innova produces a low calorie kibble.  It sounds like you are adding a lot of goodies to Kim's diet.  If you add, then you must subtract from the kibble so he gets the same amount each meal. 

Rather than give him a big meal and then two small ones, or one big meal and one small one, I would split the total amount into two equal parts.  The reason for feeding smaller meals rather than one big one is to avoid bloat.  These dogs are deep chested and bloat is something every RR owner is very much aware of.  Feeding smaller amounts more often helps the digestive system not to be overloaded.

I had a grandfather who sounds just like Alan.  He could never resist a "hungry dog" and would always sneak tidbits off his plate.  At the time we had a Golden Retriever that my aunt was showing and she was constantly after him to stop feeding David because he was getting so fat!  His response was 'he's hungry".  Sure!  David knew all the buttons to push.  My husband is also a little like that and feels he has to save something from his plate for the dogs.  As a result they all sit at his feet as he eats and they always get rewarded.  On the other hand I can eat quite happily without a drooling dog as they know they will get nothing from me at the table, though they are allowed to sit by the dishwasher after the meal and lick the plates!

If you feel you can control Kim with a Flexi OK, but most people feel they don't have the control that a 6ft leather leash can give.  Have you thought of a harness and check cord like they use for tracking.  That would give him plenty of room to roam and you would have a 50ft cord to reel him in if needed.

Caroline

Offline Gairlochan

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Re: Dominance/Jumping up/Play-biting issues + Invalid owner
« Reply #15 on: July 18, 2010, 12:12 PM »
Yes, it probably would help to break down your posts into different subjects so we can answer your questions more easily.

I am going to address the feeding issue:  I think each dog's ability to put on/lose weight varies so all one can do is generalize and then you must adjust according to what you think Kim needs.  I have a 14 week old puppy right now.  He was pretty thin when I picked him up but I kept on feeding him three times a day, one cup of adult kibble at each meal.  At one meal he would get a tablespoon of cottage cheese, and at another a tablespoon of yogurt, and at the third I would give him a little canned food, which is mostly water anyway but added some tasty gravy to the rather dry kibble.  Besides doing a growth spurt he has also put on weight and while he is still not as fat as my puppies in the past, he looks pretty good and I think it is just his type, long and lean.  I now only give the yogurt and cottage cheese a couple of times a week rather than daily.  There are some good low calorie dog foods on the market now.  I don't know what you can get in Australia, but I am feeding California Natural and Innova.  I know Innova produces a low calorie kibble.  It sounds like you are adding a lot of goodies to Kim's diet.  If you add, then you must subtract from the kibble so he gets the same amount each meal. 

Rather than give him a big meal and then two small ones, or one big meal and one small one, I would split the total amount into two equal parts.  The reason for feeding smaller meals rather than one big one is to avoid bloat.  These dogs are deep chested and bloat is something every RR owner is very much aware of.  Feeding smaller amounts more often helps the digestive system not to be overloaded.

I had a grandfather who sounds just like Alan.  He could never resist a "hungry dog" and would always sneak tidbits off his plate.  At the time we had a Golden Retriever that my aunt was showing and she was constantly after him to stop feeding David because he was getting so fat!  His response was 'he's hungry".  Sure!  David knew all the buttons to push.  My husband is also a little like that and feels he has to save something from his plate for the dogs.  As a result they all sit at his feet as he eats and they always get rewarded.  On the other hand I can eat quite happily without a drooling dog as they know they will get nothing from me at the table, though they are allowed to sit by the dishwasher after the meal and lick the plates!

If you feel you can control Kim with a Flexi OK, but most people feel they don't have the control that a 6ft leather leash can give.  Have you thought of a harness and check cord like they use for tracking.  That would give him plenty of room to roam and you would have a 50ft cord to reel him in if needed.


Caroline


Caro,

I'll take what you say about two equal sized meals to heart. I knew about bloat and about the torsion of the gut because of the deep chests (or are they the same thing?). I had thought of a larger meal in the morning so (once they'd done a few hours of digesting)they could then spend the rest of the day working off the calories, turning them into muscle rather than the fat they would turn into if eaten just before bedtime. But I don't want either of them getting bloat/torsion, so I'll let Alan know two divide it equally.

The new girl Gypsy is a good weight, much leaner than Kim and therefore much quicker and lighter on her feet when they're chasing each other on the beach. She looked scrawny when she arrived, because she'd been doing no exercise having no-one to play with or take her out, but 6 days of playing with Kim has already put some very visible muscle on her and she looks great. They really work each other out down the beach, having running battles for hundreds of metres, and Kim is now starting to lose a little weight and become even more muscular thanks to the great deal of exercise she gives him.

Training them is simpler than I had expected. Kim's a slow learner and Gypsy's a fast learner but late starter, so we're working on the same things with both, and the atmosphere in the house is so much more contented (Kim not chewing or biting in frustration; she's the only distraction he wants and needs) that, whilst it's not perfect, it's workable and could be a great deal worse.

He wears a harness (a Gentle Leader so I can get some leverage and control over his 26" height/85 lb weight and tugboat strength), but I've never heard of a check cord. If it needs to be reeled in manually, it sounds like hard work and a recipe for tangles. But we're about to change to a Cujo leash with a two-way rotating attachment so we can take the dogs out together without both of us needing to be there with a dog each, and that will be a little springy but not extendable, and it will be a lot shorter. That's for their morning constitutional; in the afternoon they tear around up the northern end of the beach, right up away from the north 4WD entrance if the tide's right so we can drive up there in the 4WD. I've got some wonderful footage I haven't managed to put up on YouTube of them body-slamming each other, rearing up together like stallions, rolling and tumbling in the sand, ambushing each other, charging through the shallows of the surf etc. They look so alive and both are fitter and sleep really well :-). We could never exercise Kim like that by throwing sticks, or even with a bicycle.

Lachlan